From MAMAC’s Rooftop, Nice Spreads Toward the Hills.
Nice, France, October 2022
The former Senate building of Nice.
Nice, France, October 2022
Today, Nice greets me at its best—vibrant, sun-drenched, full of life. What captivates me instantly is the light: a warm, almost golden glow that makes the facades of the old town shine.
A modest queue has formed in front of a small bakery—everyone is waiting for Socca, a crispy chickpea pancake fresh from the wood-fired oven. I join the line but eventually lose patience and move on.
Down at the harbor, boats sway gently on the water. Luxury yachts with gleaming railings sit side by side with small, brightly painted fishing boats. The contrast is striking: champagne glasses clink on the decks of the grand ships, while on the dock a fisherman quietly mends his net.
For the best view of the city, I climb to the rooftop of MAMAC, the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. From up here, Nice unfolds before me—the old town glowing in warm colors, the endless blue of the Mediterranean, the green hills in the distance. This city knows how to present itself.
The Church of Gesù, or Église Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur, stands tightly framed by the narrow streets of Old Nice. Built in the 17th century, its Baroque façade, with blue and gold detailing, adds a dramatic contrast to the surrounding pastel buildings. A hidden architectural gem in the heart of Vieux Nice.
Right: The former Senate building of Nice, its worn façade hinting at centuries of political history. Once a seat of local governance, today it stands as a reminder of the city’s past, with the European, French, and Niçois flags still marking its significance.
The former Senate building of Nice, its worn façade hinting at centuries of political history. Once a seat of local governance, today it stands as a reminder of the city’s past, with the European, French, and Niçois flags still marking its significance.
A strikingly narrow building in Nice’s Old Town. Sandwiched between traditional pastel facades, this tall, slim structure is a reminder of how every inch of space is used in the tightly packed streets of Vieux Nice.
Right: A staple of Nice’s Old Town, Chez Thérésa has been serving up socca for generations. This no-frills spot is famous for its crispy chickpea pancake, a local specialty baked in a wood-fired oven. Customers line up early to get a slice of tradition, served simply on a piece of paper.
A staple of Nice’s Old Town, Chez Thérésa has been serving up socca for generations. This no-frills spot is famous for its crispy chickpea pancake, a local specialty baked in a wood-fired oven. Customers line up early to get a slice of tradition, served simply on a piece of paper.
Place Masséna, the heart of Nice. The Fontaine du Soleil dominates the square, with a towering Apollo surrounded by bronze mythological figures.
The iconic shoreline of Nice: the pebbled beach of the Baie des Anges stretches along the Promenade des Anglais, with the city’s hillside apartments stacked behind it.
Nice’s L2 tram glides past Port Lympia, where luxury yachts line the docks against a backdrop of colorful Mediterranean buildings. Opened in 2019, this modern tramway connects the city center with the port, blending contemporary transit with historic charm.
A tale of two boats in Port Lympia. A small wooden fishing vessel shares the water with "Elements", a 262-foot superyacht available for charter at a staggering $827,000 per week.
Left: The Church of Notre-Dame du Port stands with neoclassical grandeur in Nice’s bustling harbor district. Built in the mid-19th century, its four massive columns and triangular pediment resemble an ancient temple.
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Right: Inside Notre-Dame du Port, neoclassical symmetry defines the space. Tall Corinthian columns line the nave, supporting a coffered ceiling that adds depth and grandeur. A quiet retreat in the heart of Nice.
The Church of Notre-Dame du Port stands with neoclassical grandeur in Nice’s bustling harbor district. Built in the mid-19th century, its four massive columns and triangular pediment resemble an ancient temple.
Inside Notre-Dame du Port, neoclassical symmetry defines the space. Tall Corinthian columns line the nave, supporting a coffered ceiling that adds depth and grandeur. A quiet retreat in the heart of Nice.
Left: The Russian Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Nicholas in Nice, a striking reminder of the city’s historic ties to Russia. Completed in 1912, its onion domes, intricate brickwork, and gilded details make it one of the most impressive Orthodox churches outside Russia. A piece of imperial history on the French Riviera.
The Russian Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Nicholas in Nice, a striking reminder of the city’s historic ties to Russia. Completed in 1912, its onion domes, intricate brickwork, and gilded details make it one of the most impressive Orthodox churches outside Russia. A piece of imperial history on the French Riviera.
MAMAC, Nice’s museum of modern and contemporary art, is a bold mix of glass, concrete, and steel. Opened in 1990, it showcases avant-garde works from Yves Klein to Niki de Saint Phalle.
Left: Rue Cassini stretches toward the grand façade of the Palais des Congrès. Flanked by pastel-colored buildings with green shutters and terracotta roofs, this street links the historic Old Town to the city’s modern districts.
Rue Cassini stretches toward the grand façade of the Palais des Congrès. Flanked by pastel-colored buildings with green shutters and terracotta roofs, this street links the historic Old Town to the city’s modern districts.
Nice from the rooftop of the Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (MAMAC). Below, the Promenade du Paillon carves a green path through the city, leading to the Acropolis Convention Center. Classic Mediterranean facades frame the scene, with the hills beyond marking the city’s natural boundary.