A grand interior of a multi-level library featuring wooden shelves, circular balconies, and ample natural light. A person photographing a grand entrance with ornate doors and stone architecture, surrounded by steps and decorative elements.
Finland

Helsinki: A City on Hold

Monumental side entrance at Helsinki railway station
Helsinki, Finland, July 2023

Helsinki has a reputation for being spacious, orderly, and calm. People come here expecting clarity and structure, maybe even a certain kind of restraint. It’s the kind of capital city that doesn’t push itself forward. Everything has its place, and nothing demands attention.

However, on the day I visited, things were a bit different because I wasn’t the only notable guest in town. The President of the United States was there, too. This meant barricades, soldiers, police units, roadblocks, and large crowds standing around with nowhere to go.

The city center was mostly sealed off, but I tried to make my way through anyway. Senate Square was completely deserted, many key streets and public spaces were inaccessible, and between the barriers, fences, and parked security vehicles, there wasn’t much room left for the city itself.

So Helsinki wasn’t exactly at its most photogenic that day. Still, even behind the layers of restrictions, I managed to catch glimpses of its beauty.

Map of Helsinki
A striking red-brick cathedral with green domes and ornate details, set against a clear blue sky. The grand entrance features steps leading up.
The Uspenski Cathedral, dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, is crowned with thirteen domes coated in 24-carat gold and holds the title of the largest Orthodox church in Northern and Western Europe. It stands proudly on the Katajanokka Rock in the heart of Helsinki. The church was completed in 1868, built from red bricks that once belonged to the demolished Bomarsund Fortress on the Åland Islands.
A stunning red brick cathedral with green domes, surrounded by steps and grass, showcasing intricate architectural details.
A view of colorful glass-roofed buildings with brick architecture, surrounded by greenery and urban scenery in Helsinki.
Modern hotel building with "PALACE" sign, surrounded by water and docks, showcasing Helsinki's waterfront architecture.
A scenic view of city buildings along a calm river, featuring a vintage boat and a bridge with a tram crossing. Lush greenery lines the waterfront.
A vibrant outdoor café with empty tables and blooming flowers in front of a grand white cathedral.
Helsinki Cathedral, built between 1830 and 1852 in neoclassical style, stands on Senate Square at the very heart of the city. It is the most recognizable landmark of Helsinki.
A large white neoclassical building with green domes and a staircase, featuring two people in front, enjoying the view.
A white neoclassical building with grand columns and a green dome, set against a clear blue sky.
A grand white cathedral roof with a green dome and golden accents under a clear blue sky. Statues adorn the front façade.
In 1849, twelve larger-than-life sized zinc statues of the apostles were erected above the gables of the church. On the south side shown here, facing the Senate Square, are the statues of Bartholomew, John, and Matthew.
A church altar featuring a large painting, flanked by angel statues and a baptismal font, with a circular layout and decorative details.
The altar of Helsinki Cathedral, with Carl Timoleon von Neff's painting "The Descent of Jesus from the Cross" donated by Nicholas I.
A bronze monument featuring historical figures, surrounded by colorful flowers and a decorative fence, with an impressive building in the background.
At the center of Senate Square stands a monument to Tsar Alexander II, who was highly esteemed for his Finland-friendly policies. The Tsar rises high on a red granite pedestal, surrounded by four allegorical groups of figures, each embodying a different value. There is Law, represented by a woman with a sword, a bearskin, and a lion. Labor is depicted by a peasant couple. Peace takes shape in the form of a goddess holding doves. And finally, there is Light, symbolized by a spectrometer and flanked by an angel with a lyre, standing for the arts.
A bronze statue surrounded by colorful flowers, depicting historical figures in a public square with historic buildings in the background.
Historic neoclassical building with tall columns and a domed roof, surrounded by trees and a cobblestone walkway. Clear blue sky above.
The Finnish National Library (Kansalliskirjasto) is the oldest and largest scientific library in the country. Its collection includes three million books and three million other publications. Most of these treasures are stored in the "Kirjaluola", which literally means "book cave" in Finnish. This underground bunker is carved 18 meters below the library into solid rock and has a volume of 57,600 cubic meters.
An elegant library interior featuring grand columns, colorful bookshelves, and a beautifully painted ceiling. Cozy reading chairs are arranged throughout.
A grand interior of a multi-level library featuring wooden shelves, circular balconies, and ample natural light.
Aerial view of a circular atrium featuring a glass skylight and ornate railings, illuminated by soft lighting.
Historic railway station entrance with grand architecture, featuring sculptures and a large arch, bustling with visitors.
The main entrance to Helsinki Railway Station is flanked by four granite figures holding up huge spherical lamps. They are called Lyhdynkantajat, which is Finnish for "lantern bearers."
Two large stone figures holding lanterns, set against a blue sky, showcasing iconic architecture.
Sculptures of muscular figures holding geometric orbs on a historic building facade in a city scene.
A person photographing a grand entrance with ornate doors and stone architecture, surrounded by steps and decorative elements.
A bustling transit station interior featuring an ornate archway, large clock, and escalators with people moving in various directions.
An interior view of a unique concert hall with a wooden dome, rock walls, and purple seating, showcasing modern architectural design.
The Temppeliaukio Church, completed in 1969, is a modern rock-hewn church in Helsinki’s Etu-Töölö district. Carved directly into solid granite, it is illuminated by sunlight streaming through 180 narrow windows set into its copper dome. The church rises 13 meters to the top of the cupola and can hold up to 940 people. Thanks to its extraordinary acoustics, created by the rough, unpolished rock walls, the church is also used frequently as a concert hall.
Interior of a modern chapel with a wooden, curved ceiling and rock walls. Pews arranged for worshippers, featuring greenery and organ pipes.
Interior of a modern rock church featuring rows of vibrant pink chairs, a wooden ceiling, and glass-walled natural light.
An architectural interior featuring vertical wooden slats and stone walls, capturing natural light from above.
An interior view of a unique rock church featuring a large wooden organ, surrounded by dark stone walls and blue pews.
The organ was built in 1975 and has 43 stops and 3,001 pipes.
Hikers walking on rocky terrain leading to a unique stone structure under a cloudy sky in Helsinki.
The copper dome roof of the church protrudes from the rock.
A stone structure with a green roof stands on rocky terrain, surrounded by colorful buildings under a cloudy sky.
There are no bells at Temppeliaukio Church, but a specially composed a recording of bells is played via loudspeakers on the outer stone wall.
A historic stone building with red roofs and a central statue, surrounded by flowers and people on bicycles in a vibrant urban square.
Sculpture of Finnish writer Aleksis Kivi on Rautatientori Square in downtown Helsinki in front of the Finnish National Theater.
A bronze statue of a seated man deep in thought, titled "Aleksis Kivi," surrounded by greenery in an urban setting.
The Monument is mentioned in Bertolt Brecht's “Refugee Conversations.” According to the play, the Kivi sculpture looks as if he is dreaming of a piece of bread.
Historic building entrance with ornate wooden doors and classical architecture; two visitors approaching the steps.
The entrance to the Finnish National Gallery.
A tall brick church with a prominent steeple and intricate arches, set against a clear sky and surrounded by lush greenery.
The German Church of Helsinki. Built in 1864, it is the heart of the German Evangelical Lutheran community in Finland and its most important building. Beyond Helsinki, the congregation maintains German-speaking groups in 19 other locations across Finland. The church is also one of the city’s most popular wedding venues.
A historical yellow building with a green door and large windows, featuring a sign reading "NORMALLYCEUM." and lampposts.
In the Finnish capital, the German Church casts its shadow on the Swedish Normal Lyceum. Built in 1880, the building is the oldest school in Helsinki still serving its original purpose.
A distinctive brick building featuring artistic reliefs on its facade, surrounded by greenery and a stone pathway.
Kauppiaita (“Merchants”) is a multi-part ceramic relief adorning the façade of Helsinki’s former School of Economics. Created in 1950 by Finnish sculptor and ceramicist Michael Schilkin, it depicts merchants from around the world surrounded by symbolic figures of trade. Among them is Hermes, the patron god of merchants, holding his scales.
A wall mural featuring various relief sculptures, including figures holding scales and engaged in work, surrounded by greenery.
A wooden pier extending into a calm harbor, surrounded by colorful buildings and boats under a clear blue sky.
Looking from South Harbor towards the city.
A tranquil view of an island with lush trees and historic buildings, set against calm waters and a soft sky.
Looking from South Harbor towards Valkosaari (the “white island”).