Loviisa, Finland, July 2023
Loviisa is a small, quiet town on Finland’s southern coast, about an hour's drive east of Helsinki. There isn't much traffic here. Traffic lights? None. And many of the streets in the town center aren't even paved, just compacted sand and gravel. By now, I’ve noticed this seems to be the case in several other Finnish towns as well.
The center is compact and marked by well-preserved wooden and brick buildings. The most striking feature is the large neo-Gothic church, with its red brick walls and pointed spire towering above the town. Built between 1862 and 1867, it reused building material from a nearby sea fortress that had been destroyed just a few years earlier during the Crimean War.
While walking through Loviisa, the cosmos probably isn’t the first thing that comes to mind. And yet, in 1983, an asteroid was named after the town. Somehow it fits. Loviisa does feel a bit like a small celestial body, quietly moving along its orbit—distant, tranquil, and dusted with sand and gravel.
For those who prefer solid ground to cosmic thoughts, the Myllyharju Trail is the perfect remedy. It begins right by the church and leads up a broad, gently rising path through a light pine forest (resin scent included). Somewhere among the trees stands an old coastal artillery piece left over from the Cold War, when Finland’s defense system was prepared to repel an attack from across the Baltic Sea. I doubt the thing still works, but lacking the proper ammunition, I couldn't test it. For now, the sailboats off Loviisa remain safe.
























