A red brick tower with a clock on top stands on a grassy area, surrounded by green grass under a cloudy sky. A figure in swimwear stands next to a stony path and a metal tub, surrounded by grass and houses.
Germany

Juist: Wind, Waves, and Wandering Tunes

A humorous take on seaside culture.
 Juist, Germany, July 2022

Stepping off the ferry onto the car-free island of Juist, I’m greeted by a carefully arranged scene: a small lighthouse and a few scattered beach chairs—though the lighthouse isn’t really a lighthouse at all. It once stood on the neighboring bird sanctuary island of Memmert, guiding ships until wind and weather took their toll. In the 1990s, it was rebuilt here on Juist, purely as decoration. Its light no longer leads vessels to safety; instead, it shines only toward the town center.

On the day of my visit, the North Sea delivers its finest weather. The sky is gray, the wind picks up, and there’s rain in the air. The town is quiet, as expected. The houses here have names. On the Kurplatz, the bandstand shelters a small group of musicians playing East Frisian country music—cowboy hats included—before a modest audience.

Before the rain arrives, I leave. I take the next ferry back.

Map of Juist
A lighthouse stands on a grassy area with two beach chairs in front. Houses and a cloudy sky are visible in the background.
The Memmertfeuer lighthouse on Juist once guided ships through the Wadden Sea. Now, it stands as a silent landmark on this car-free island, where beach chairs wait for visitors—and the sun.
A red-brown church tower with a pointed roof and a weathervane, surrounded by trees and a paved path.
The Inselkirche Juist, with its sharp tower known as “The Rocket,” has stood strong since 1964, replacing earlier churches lost to storm tides.
A three-sided historic building with a restaurant and multiple windows. The sky is overcast and the ground is wet.
A green lawn with benches, an audience is seated in front of a stage. Residential buildings and trees are in the background.
Stage with three musicians in cowboy outfits performing a concert. The audience sits on a bench in the foreground.
A brick tower with two clocks stands behind a wall, featuring a sign that says Welcome to Juist under a gray sky.
A two-story brick facade with the name Haus Meereswogen displayed. Two beach chairs are positioned in front of the building.
A red brick building with a porch and colorful flowers in front. A bicycle is parked on the side.
A red house with ornate windows and a large green front door. Brick and roof tiles are visible.
A round beach café with a large sun canopy stands on the sandy coast, surrounded by tables and chairs.
Colorful beach chairs dot a wide sandy shore, surrounded by gentle dunes and an overcast sky.
A wooden sign reading please do not enter the dunes stands in the foreground, surrounded by grass and a coastal horizon.
A red brick tower with a clock on top stands on a grassy area, surrounded by green grass under a cloudy sky.
A relic of Juist’s past: This brick water tower once kept the island’s taps running. Now, it’s just another silent witness to the North Sea’s changing tides.
A person in yellow sits alone on a bench atop a green hill, next to a trash bin under a gray sky.
A paved path leads through dunes to a white, elegant building with a glass dome roof in a coastal area.
A brick path leads to an elegant white building with a glass dome and curved balconies.
A figure in swimwear stands next to a stony path and a metal tub, surrounded by grass and houses.
A humorous take on seaside culture—this sculpture playfully captures the moment before a refreshing dip.
A modern white viewing platform shaped like a sail stands at the coast, surrounded by calm water and a gray sky.