A modern event space with a large canopy, featuring red supports and stone arches lining the backdrop. The area is empty and spacious. A historic bell tower with orange and white walls, a green roof, and a cross, with a person jogging nearby.
Finland

Hamina: Geometry and History

The Orthodox Church of St. Peter and St. Paul
 Hamina, Finland, July 2023

The streets in Finland are wide. Very wide. Wide enough that even in the most remote neighborhoods of the most remote small towns, between the ever-present colorful wooden houses, you could probably hold a military parade without any trouble.

In Hamina, that would hardly be a challenge anyway; the town was built precisely for it, as a fortress city with strict military order. At its center lies a large circular square, from which streets radiate outward like spokes. Concentric ring roads connect them, forming a star-shaped radial system that looks as if it had leapt straight out of an idealized city model.

Yet, the center itself is actually quite charming. Along these geometrically perfect streets stand old wooden houses painted in soft shades of ochre, dusty pink, and blue-gray. Rising above them are three church towers. Directly opposite one another on the central square stand the wooden St. John’s Church, which resembles a Greek temple, and the Orthodox Church of Saints Peter and Paul, a round orange structure in Byzantine style. A little farther out lies St. Mary’s Church, which has a long and eventful history and is older than the town itself.

Then there is the fortress. A ring of bastions surrounds the entire center, now mostly gentle grassy hills with walking paths and trees, where people stroll with their dogs.In one section stands a massive stone arena called the Central Bastion, where concerts and festivals are held. I’ve read that parts of it are still used by the military. At least, barracks and training buildings line the edge, making it feel as if a trumpet might sound at any moment and a general could step onto the square.

Unfortunately, I have to leave Hamina all too quickly, I have other destinations ahead of me today. One last look back, then I move on—without fanfare.

Map of Hamina
A historical building with a cross on top, surrounded by trees and a cobblestone road under a cloudy sky.
A historic church with a blue façade and decorative gold accents, surrounded by green trees and a pathway.
A historic blue wooden church with a cross, surrounded by greenery and benches, alongside a stone memorial.
St. John's Church (1843) looks almost like a Greek temple. A memorial stone next to the church commemorates the signing of the Treaty of Hamina in 1809. The treaty ended the Finnish War (1808–1809), which was part of the Napoleonic Wars. Sweden ceded Finland to Russia, which then established the autonomous Grand Duchy of Finland. The treaty marked the end of Sweden's era as a great power and was a key moment in the development of a distinct Finnish national identity.
A quiet street lined with trees and colorful buildings leads to a tower, showcasing the charm of a small town.
A colorful building facade with yellow walls, decorative red windows, and a small structure mimicking a window with a hidden cat.
A nicely painted electrical distribution box.
A charming pink wooden house with a gray door and white stairs adorned with flowers. Light gray sky in the backdrop.
A yellow wooden building at a street corner, featuring decorative trim and large windows, typical of Finnish architecture.
A historic building with a tower, surrounded by greenery and a roundabout, set against a cloudy sky.
The center of Hamina is formed by an octagonal town square. From this square, eight streets radiate outward like sunbeams. Two ring-shaped roads surround the center and intersect the radial streets. Around this street system lies an old fortress that encloses the entire city center.
A historic town hall with a clock tower, yellow façade, and landscaped gardens, showcasing a cobblestone pathway.
A historic yellow building featuring a clock tower, surrounded by greenery and a clear sky, showcasing classic architectural design.
An ice cream kiosk named Minetti in Hamina, surrounded by greenery, with a friendly staff member inside serving customers.
A detailed yellow wooden house with ornate architectural features, featuring a distinctive tower and multiple windows.
A historic bell tower with orange and white walls, a green roof, and a cross, with a person jogging nearby.
A vibrant archway in Hamina frames a pathway leading to a historic building surrounded by lush greenery.
An orange building with a dome and columns, surrounded by lush green trees and grass. Ideal for capturing architecture in nature.
The Orthodox Church of St. Peter and Paul is a round church in Byzantine style, built in 1837. The bell tower was erected in 1862. The church is located right next to the town hall square, directly opposite St. John's Church.
A modern event space with a large canopy, featuring red supports and stone arches lining the backdrop. The area is empty and spacious.
Hamina Fortress is used as a venue for different events. Perhaps the most notable is the Hamina Tattoo, an international military music event held bi-annually in Hamina.
A large tent structure with a curved canopy and red supports, set in a green landscape with a sandy area underneath.
A large outdoor venue with a modern tensile roof and seating, featuring a wide pathway leading to grassy areas.
A church building with a tall spire, surrounded by trees and greenery on a clear day. Pathway leads to the entrance.
St. Mary's Church is a stone church built in the 15th century and is the oldest building in Hamina. In the 16th century, the church was repeatedly plundered and set on fire. At that time, it stood outside fortified settlements along a heavily used transit route, making it an easy target during times of war. As a result, wall and ceiling paintings were destroyed, and valuable church treasures were lost. Later, when the town of Hamina was founded nearby, St. Mary's Church became the place of worship for the Finnish-speaking population, while a separate church was built for Swedish-speaking residents. In 1820, during renovation work, the church received a neoclassical facade that reshaped its appearance.
A scenic view of a river in Hamina, Finland, featuring a red wooden building, a dock, and lush green surroundings under a cloudy sky.
A boat docked at a harbor in Hamina, Finland, with vibrant graffiti art on a nearby wall and lush greenery in the background.
Two wooden figures seated in a historic boat beside a calm waterway, with greenery and boats in the background.