A charming black cottage surrounded by trees on a sandy beach in Virolahti, Finland. Ideal for a nature retreat. A red cottage among lush green fields in Virolahti, surrounded by tall trees under a clear blue sky.
Finland

Virolahti: Mökkis by the Sea

Smokehouse with tall brick chimney
Virolahti, Finland, July 2023

Virolahti lies in the far southeast of Finland, right on the border with Russia. The municipality covers a vast area but is sparsely populated. For long stretches, there’s nothing but meadows and forests, with occasional glimpses of the sea flashing through the trees. A scattering of houses appears now and then - mostly isolated, sometimes a small farm. Meeting another person here almost feels like an event.

Hidden in the woods are countless little wooden cabins known as 'mökkis'. In Finland, nearly every family has one somewhere out in nature, often by the water. Many are simple and rustic, with no electricity or running water. In Virolahti, some are well kept, while others have half collapsed. It's hard to say whether anyone still uses them.

One real eye-catcher is Virolahti’s church, with its distinctive green roof, which can be seen glowing through the trees from afar. Unfortunately, the doors were locked, so I didn't go inside.

The rest is silence.

Map of Virolahti
A historic house in Virolahti surrounded by lush green grass and tall trees, with a small red garden shed in the foreground.
An abandoned red wooden cabin nestled in lush greenery in Virolahti, Finland, with a fallen tree nearby.
An old wooden cabin in a forested area of Virolahti, surrounded by trees and greenery, showcasing rustic charm.
A charming red house surrounded by lush greenery in Virolahti, Finland, with a white wooden fence and natural landscaping.
A rustic cabin surrounded by dense greenery in Virolahti, with curtains in the windows and a warning sign in the background.
A green-roofed church building in Virolahti surrounded by trees and sunlight, with a bell tower prominently featured.
Virolahti Church, erected between 1765 and 1768. Its sharp-angled cross plan and green metal roof reflect the restrained elegance typical of rural Finnish churches. The separate bell tower was rebuilt in 1958 after a lightning strike. The adjacent stone sacristy, dating from the early 1500s, hints at an unfinished medieval stone church project.
A wooden church with a green steeple in Virolahti, surrounded by a well-maintained cemetery with floral decorations.
A small stone chapel in Virolahti surrounded by gravestones and greenery, set under a clear blue sky.
A wooden church in Virolahti, Finland, featuring a green triangular roof and surrounded by trees and greenery.
A serene view of rocky shoreline at Virolahti, Baltic Sea, featuring a wooden shed and two boats. Lush greenery surrounds the area.
A wooden cabin nestled among tall trees in Virolahti, with a sandy area in the foreground and a porch overlooking the greenery.
A cozy cabin in Virolahti, surrounded by sandy terrain and trees, with a view of the calm sea in the background.
A cozy black wooden cabin surrounded by tall trees in Virolahti, featuring large front windows and a sandy area.
A charming black cottage surrounded by trees on a sandy beach in Virolahti, Finland. Ideal for a nature retreat.
A small wooden hut on stilts in Virolahti, surrounded by greenery and a grassy field under a clear sky.
Before refrigerated trucks, there was the "maitolaituri". Scattered across Finland’s countryside, these roadside milk platforms were where farmers left metal churns for daily pickup.
A red cottage among lush green fields in Virolahti, surrounded by tall trees under a clear blue sky.
In southeastern Finland, such buildings are used as smokehouses. The tall brick chimney ensures even airflow.
A rocky shoreline in Virolahti featuring smooth stones, gentle waves, and lush greenery along the coast under a cloudy sky.